"People refer to this spot an enigmatic zone of Transylvania," explains a tour guide, his exhalation forming clouds of vapor in the cold night air. "So many visitors have vanished here, it's thought there's a gateway to a parallel world." This expert is leading a visitor on a nocturnal tour through what is often described as the world's most haunted grove: Hoia-Baciu, a section spanning 640 acres of old-growth native woodland on the outskirts of the Romanian city of Cluj-Napoca.
Accounts of unusual events here date back a long time – this woodland is called after a local shepherd who is said to have vanished in the far-off times, along with 200 of his sheep. But Hoia-Baciu came to worldwide fame in 1968, when a military technician named Emil Barnea captured on film what he reported as a flying saucer suspended above a oval meadow in the heart of the forest.
Countless ventured inside and never came out. But no need to fear," he continues, facing the visitor with a smirk. "Our guided walks have a perfect safety record."
In the decades since, Hoia-Baciu has drawn meditation experts, spiritual healers, extraterrestrial investigators and paranormal investigators from around the globe, eager to feel the mysterious powers said to echo through the forest.
Despite being among the planet's leading destinations for supernatural fans, the grove is under threat. The outlying areas of Cluj-Napoca – a modern tech hub of a population exceeding 400,000, described as the Silicon Valley of the region – are encroaching, and real estate firms are advocating for authorization to clear the trees to build apartment blocks.
Barring a few hectares containing regionally uncommon oak varieties, this woodland is not officially protected, but Marius hopes that the company he co-founded – a local conservation effort – will assist in altering this, motivating the local administrators to recognise the forest's importance as a travel hotspot.
As twigs and autumn leaves split and rustle beneath their shoes, Marius describes various traditional stories and claimed supernatural events here.
Despite several of the stories may be impossible to confirm, numerous elements visibly present that is undeniably strange. Everywhere you look are vegetation whose bases are curved and contorted into bizarre configurations.
Various suggestions have been suggested to clarify the misshapen plants: that hurricane winds could have bent the saplings, or typically increased electromagnetic fields in the earth explain their strange formation.
But scientific investigations have found no satisfactory evidence.
The expert's tours permit guests to engage in a modest investigation of their own. When nearing the clearing in the forest where Barnea photographed his well-known UFO photographs, he hands the visitor an ghost-hunting device which detects electromagnetic fields.
"We're venturing into the most energetic part of the forest," he states. "Discover what's here."
The plants abruptly end as they step into a flawless round. The sole vegetation is the low vegetation beneath our feet; it's obvious that it's naturally occurring, and looks that this strange clearing is organic, not the work of people.
This part of Romania is a place which inspires creativity, where the border is blurred between fact and folklore. In countryside villages faith continues in strigoi ("screamers") – supernatural, form-changing vampires, who emerge from tombs to terrorise nearby villages.
The famous author's famous fictional vampire is permanently linked with Transylvania, and the legendary fortress – an ancient structure located on a cliff edge in the Transylvanian Alps – is actively advertised as "Dracula's Castle".
But despite myth-shrouded Transylvania – truly, "the territory after the grove" – appears tangible and comprehensible versus these eerie woods, which give the impression of being, for factors related to radiation, atmospheric or purely mythical, a hub for creative energy.
"In Hoia-Baciu," the guide states, "the line between reality and imagination is remarkably blurred."
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